The Bow Dress: A 1950’s pattern

For my most recent sewing project (ok, actually the one I was most recently able to photograph to share with you all), I wanted to find a fun use for a pretty minty blue fabric with little white bows on the print. Of course, I had to look for a sewing pattern that actually used bows… I found Advance 9190 in my collection. This pattern isn’t dated, but I believe it is from the early 1960’s or late 1950’s. It follows more of the 50’s style with a full skirt and fitted waist.

I had heard a few people who use vintage patterns say they don’t care for Advance patterns. It was my first time using one and I think I understand their dislike. Though the dress design is super cute, the instructions weren’t as clear as some other pattern companies and the pattern pieces didn’t always match up like they should. For example, when I began to attach the top of the skirt to the bottom of the bodice, what should have been an exact match was more than two inches off. =( I had to take apart some darts and seams to get the skirt to line up with the bodice (which I already made a practice of so I knew it fit correctly). That is one of the reasons the finished skirt doesn’t have quite the same shape as the illustration on the envelope. However, I love the way the bodice turned out! It fit well and I liked the gathering detail under the yoke, the bow, etc.

I also didn’t realize until I’d started that the dress had a front zipper closure. Though certainly convenient, I don’t really like that look so I used an invisible zipper. I did not have the correct zipper foot for an invisible zipper so I sewed it in by hand. It was a little more time consuming, but I knew I would be happier with it overall. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to precisely match up the waist seam on each side of the zipper. I added belt loops so a thin white belt could cover the mismatch.

Because my fabric was thin (and probably not intended as apparel fabric), I decided to line the bodice. I used the method of attaching each lining piece to its corresponding fabric piece and sewing them as one piece. This kept the top from being see through and a crinoline or slip will be worn on the bottom. I made this dress shorter than it called for to find the length that looked best on me for this summery dress.

I love the contrast bow which is part of the dress. In this picture, you can see how it matches the little bows on the fabric print.

Oh, and yes, I did get my hair cut! I went with a shorter cut so I could style it with my vintage and vintage inspired outfits. I’m still figuring it out, but it’s been a fun adventure so far!