Winter Dressmaking from Vintage Patterns

I’ve been dreaming of this project for over a year. I wanted to make a weskit. I get cold very easily and it can be so hard to find professional clothing that also keeps me warm. I have finally realized that the secret to dressing warmly is not fuzzier sweaters, it’s strategic layers! In casual settings, I have a puffer vest that I layer over long sleeve shirts to stay warm. I wondered if a weskit would have the same effect while looking more professional…and English countryside…all right, Hobbity. I had several woolen fabric remnants from a yard sale which were good candidates for the project. I chose a lovely Celtic shade of green. I tend to wear green a lot to match my eyes so I knew it would go with a lot of my wardrobe already. I purchased Simplicity Pattern 2720 c. 1949 through eBay. I did a mock-up, then made adjustments. This piece was much slower in the making than my summer projects because I had to make some adjustments for size and the construction was a more tailored fit, requiring more precision. This was also the first piece I made with a lining. There were several times along the way that I had to lay it aside a while and problem solve.

I finished it…and it still didn’t fit quite right. I unpicked a seam and made some more adjustments until it was just as I wanted. I also marked the pattern so if I make another weskit with different material, I’ll save myself the process of all that guess work. The last steps were to add button holes and buttons. I do keep a button collection, but I didn’t have enough buttons of the same kind. These Celtic knot buttons were the perfect find at Joann Fabrics. The pattern called for bound buttonholes, but they had to be made before the rest of the weskit was constructed. I chickened out and made hand worked button holes instead using embroidery thread. I ended up liking that best in the end because I could add a little flair to it.

I have definitely enjoyed pairing the weskit with tweeds and plaids and other woolens. I’ve realized it is great for a 1940’s style, but also works for more Victorian/Edwardian inspired outfits as well. Sometimes I feel like Marlene Dietrich and at other times Anne of Green Gables.

The next winter layering project was a 1950s jumper. I used Butterick 6065 and also referenced Simplicity 1222 c. 1955 for inspiration and some supplemental instruction. Most of my dresses are very light weight and summery in style. I wanted something that would look right for winter and that I could layer with a long sleeve blouse and leggings/hose for warmth. I only had three options in my fabric stash that had enough yardage. I liked a green and blue plaid the best. I was almost done when I realized it was the same colors and similar pattern as the jumpers that are part of the elementary school uniform at the school where I teach. Haha! I guess I won’t be wearing this on Tuesday or Thursdays.

Because I was using plaid, I had to have a little more fabric than called for and marked the outline of the pattern pieces with chalk. I tried to match up the pattern as closely as possibly. I did okay for my first try, though it wasn’t a perfect match. I also love the new bent scissors I got for Christmas! Cutting around the pattern pieces was so much easier!

Before attaching the bodice to the skirt, I decided to add a pocket. The pattern didn’t call for this, but why wouldn’t you add a pocket if you could? I used a pocket from another pattern for directions and added a pocket to the right side. The left side has a zipper closure.

I still have more to learn about sizing up and down patterns, but I love the end result. It is warm and comfortable and I love the dramatic pattern of the plaid. Most of my vintage dresses have shorter skirts, but I liked the length of this one for winter. The material itself is warm and even better when paired with a long sleeve blouse.

I have enjoyed being warm this winter while still feeling pretty. Best of luck on your own winter wardrobes! Remember that even if you don’t make your own clothing, you can often find great pieces second hand. My red coat, white blouse, tweed trousers, and blue wool skirt were all thrift store finds!

Check out my Etsy shop for vintage patterns!